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If you've still got ceramic fuses in a Sydney home, your switchboard is doing three things you don't want: wasting your insurance claim, risking a fire, and failing at the worst possible moment. Let's upgrade it to breakers + RCDs, properly.
When you need one
If any of these are true, your board is compromised — at best inefficient, at worst a fire risk.
If you pull a cartridge out and see a wire threaded through — that's pre-1990 tech. It can't trip fast enough to protect you from electrocution.
RCDs (safety switches) trip in milliseconds if they detect current leaking to earth — through you, for example. AS/NZS 3000 requires them on every final subcircuit. If yours are missing, fix that yesterday.
If your breakers are tripping frequently or you hear buzzing from the board, that's a signal. Either wiring underneath has degraded, or the board itself can't handle the modern load.
Common in pre-1985 homes. Not dangerous while sealed but needs careful removal by a licensed sparky — which I do. Never chip, drill, or sand near one yourself.
A dated board is the #1 thing that blocks modern upgrades. If you're adding solar, a heat pump, an EV charger, or air-con, the board has to carry it. Upgrade first, everything else gets simpler.
The process
No mystery. Here's exactly how a typical switchboard upgrade runs.
You build a quote online or send a photo. I confirm the board type, number of circuits, and whether there's asbestos. The price we agree is the price — unless I find something buried in a wall I couldn't see.
I notify you before I cut power. Normally I do the main changeover in one 2–3 hour block so you're not without power all day. Kettles, routers, alarms — all back online before I leave.
Hager or Clipsal enclosure. Breakers on every circuit, RCDs on every final subcircuit, surge diverter if you want one, neat labelling. Asbestos backing removed safely if present.
Every circuit insulation-tested, RCDs trip-tested. Certificate of Compliance for Electrical Work (CCEW) lodged with Fair Trading within 7 days — that's your legal proof the work was done to AS/NZS 3000.
What it costs
Most Sydney switchboard upgrades land between $1,500 and $3,500. Here's what moves the number.
60 seconds · no call required
Why Power Play
NSW Electrical Contractor Licence 485016C. Fully insured, public liability cover.
CCEW on every job. Lodged with Fair Trading within 7 days. That's your proof + your insurance claim backup.
The person you speak to is the person who does the work. No subbies, no booking agents, no "our team will call you back."
Hager + Clipsal gear as standard. Tier-1 manufacturers with AU distribution. Not the cheapest import — the stuff that still works in 15 years.
Switchboard FAQ
Most upgrades sit between $1,500 and $3,500. It depends on what you've got (ceramic fuses vs partial upgrade), how many circuits, and how awkward the location is. Build a quote online and see your exact estimate in 60 seconds.
In NSW, all final subcircuits (power + lighting) on new or upgraded installations must have RCD protection under AS/NZS 3000. Older homes aren't forced to retrofit, but you should. RCDs detect current leaking to earth (like through a person) and trip in milliseconds — that's the whole point.
Most jobs take 4–8 hours end-to-end. Power is off for the main changeover (usually 2–3 hours). I give you a heads-up before cutting power so you can shut down computers, move food out of the freezer, whatever you need.
Hager and Clipsal (Schneider) as standard. Both are Tier-1, both have local parts availability, both will still be serviceable in 15 years. I don't fit no-name imported breakers — saves $200, costs you the job when it fails.
Yes, if you've got a way to let me in and you're OK with power off during the day. I'll secure the house when I leave. Most customers prefer to be home for the final walk-through — I'll show you where every new breaker is and how to reset an RCD.
I handle it. Licensed to remove small amounts of non-friable asbestos safely (AS 2601), sealed disposal. Adds ~$200–$400 to the job depending on size. Not a reason to avoid upgrading — a reason to use someone who knows what they're doing.
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